A Few Days in San Miguel de Allende (SMDA), Mexico
I hadn’t been here in about 12 years, so I wondered whether today’s San Miguel would live up to my somewhat exaggerated memories of this most magical of cities, and I have to say that despite the increase in traffic, gringos, and prices, it did not disappoint. The architecture and views here attract artists and photographers from all over the world. Breathtaking surprises loom around every new corner and at the top of each steep cobblestone street. The climate is practically perfect year-round. I never tire of walking and climbing, climbing and walking, to find the next perfect photo opportunity. The main church (La Parroquia) in the central garden (El Jardin) might be one of the most impressive small churches in the world. Lit up at night, you feel transported to some unearthly, sparkling fairyland.
But, come on, $15 for a medium sized pizza in Mexico is a bit much! Really, this city seems as expensive as any southern California chi-chi town. $50 bought me a room in an aging dump of a hotel and the rest of my money burnt through my pocket in a record-breaking blaze. However we did see the virtuoso violinist Timothy Fain in a Carnegie Hall-worthy performance featuring the premier of a new Phillip Glass work – for $20. No complaints there. The night before that we saw a local, professional production of a Tennessee Williams play and listened to some excellent live music while dining at one of SMDA’s many fine restaurants. My daily life in comparatively culture-less Granada began to pale in comparison.
Because I knew this city was not in my real-estate range and I had no intention of ever investing here, I didn’t do any serious shopping around. However, I talked to many folks who had built, renovated, and bought at various times over the last 20 years. Any real estate around the historic center is, as expected, incredibly expensive. We’re talking half a million and up, even for small houses. Outlying areas still apparently have some “deals” (new 1 bedroom condos for $150 Gs and up, for example), but tend to be 20 minutes or more walking distance from the center, and a steep climb back home.
With the influx of so many gringos, mainly retirees, and the subsequent growing wealth of the Mexican middle class, the number of cars has drastically increased and the high volume of traffic is not attractive. Also, there are so many older North Americans here I sometimes felt like I had stumbled into an Assisted Living residence.
Folks who live in SMDA really love it. They have lots of friends, life is comfortable and easy, and there are so many activities to choose from, day and night. But you really better have the income to support the SMDA lifestyle. I was assured by some of the ex-pat residents that there were cheaper restaurants and lifestyles – but then, wouldn’t you be denying yourself of the best that the city has to offer? Who wants to live in a constant state of penny-pinching self-denial?
So here are my Pros and Cons to living in SMDA. Remember, this is just my opinion and this world-class city is totally worth a visit whether you are thinking of living there or not.
PROS:
- It’s drop-dead GORGEOUS – you will never get tired of simply looking and exploring;
- There is a huge variety of activities, entertainment, classes, and food. Learn to be a film-maker or photographer, study yoga or pilates, hear world class music while eating international cuisine…you get the idea;
- It’s easy to meet other ex-pats and Spanish language needs are not as immediate as in less popular areas;
- Great climate, pretty much year-round, though a bit dry for my taste;
- Close to the international airport in Leon (about 90 minutes);
- Good infrastructure: roads, utilities, city services, hospitals, dentists, doctors;
- Don’t really need a car if you live in town. Local transportation is plentiful and reliable;
- Nearby Queretero has goods such as hardware, home décor, and anything else you can’t find in SMDA.
CONS:
- Sooo many gringos, bringing the threat of urban sprawl and over-development;
- God-blessed expensive;
- Prone to droughts – this is the high desert so in periods of no-rain the surrounding countryside can be very brown, dry and dusty;
- Possible water issues in the future due to over development.
But don’t take my word for any of this – go visit SMDA, splurge and avail yourself of its many wonders. And don’t forget day trips to the nearby cities of Guanajuato and Queretaro, two other colonial jewels well worth your time. Who needs Europe when we have Mexico?
Do you have similar stories to share about expat life or moving abroad? We’d love to hear from you.
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